Since I developed this website, I've received a lot of questions regarding the Stealth and 3000GT. So, I've decided to put together this FAQ (frequently asked questions) to help answer some of the questions that people usually have about the Stealth and 3000GT. I've compiled this FAQ with some help from various sources: Jeff Lucius, John Adams, Cody Graham, Matt Jannusch, Roger Gerl, Ken Middaugh, and others. A special "thank you" to those who have contributed!

Expand/collapse a heading below to view/hide questions for that topic.

Modifications

Diagnosing Problems

Service & Repair

Mailing Lists

Owners Database

Parts

Purchasing a 3000GT/Stealth

Tires & Wheels

Miscellaneous

Q: Can I convert my non-turbo Stealth/3000GT to a turbo Stealth/3000GT?



a: This has to be the most frequently asked question I receive. This conversion would cost far more than it would cost to just buy a turbo model from the beginning. My opinion is that it is not worth the time, effort, and money required to make this conversion. For example, just to begin you would need a new VR4/TT engine (about$4,000), a new tranny (about $4,000), a new ECU (about $1,000), and several other parts not to mention labor costs, time and effort to find the parts and a reputable shop to do it. So you're talking about AT LEAST $9,000 - plus, you still would not have the other standard VR4/TT goodies:


• 17" or 18" premium wheels
• Bigger and better brakes (rotors and calipers)
• AWD (all-wheel drive)
• AWS (all-wheel steering)
• Active-aero (front air-dam and rear active spoiler)
• ABS
• ECS (electronically controlled suspension)
• Upgraded climate control system
• Upgraded stereo
• Improved exhaust flow
• etc.

Save your money and buy a VR4/TT.

Q: Where can I find info on purchasing modifications for the Stealth or 3000GT?



a: Check out my Links page.

Q: What are the staged upgrades for the twin turbo models (VR4 and TT)?



a: Before beginning any upgrades, make sure you have completed a tune-up and your 60K service (if necessary). The stages listed here are merely a suggested path - there are others. All horsepower gains are approximated as flywheel hp and have not been measured. Dyno results will obviously show lesser gains due to drivetrain loss.

Stage 1: This stage is meant to make the car breathe easier and turn up the boost. Approx. total HP gain is 65hp.

• 3-5hp - Open element intake (K&N FIPK, HKS MegaFlow, etc.)
• 8-12hp - Cat-back exhaust (Borla, Greddy, ATR, HKS, etc.)
• 30-50hp - *Electronic Boost controller (Blitz DSBC, Greddy Profec, HKS EVC, APexi, etc.) - turning boost from stock boost level to 14.5-15psi

*Remember to re-gap spark plugs to allow for higher boost levels - see here for info on re-gapping plugs

Stage 2: Continued Improved Breathing. Approx. total HP gain is 12hp.

• 3hp - Hi-flow Catalytic Converter
• 8hp - Downpipe
• 1-2hp - Gut pre-cats
• N/a - BOV (blow-off valve) - no hp gain here but spools turbos faster giving the feeling of improved power.
• N/a - Y-Pipe (stock tends to come undone at higher boost levels than stock)

Stage 3: Get a grip! The stock clutch will begin to show its limitations at about 400hp. Approx. total HP gain is 10-15hp.

• N/a - Clutch
• 10-15hp - Lightweight flywheel

Stage 4: Fuel management. Approx. total HP gain is N/a*.

• Fuel Injectors (450cc, 550cc or 720cc)
• High-flow Fuel Pump
• AFC (air flow converter), VPC (vein pressure converter), or ARC2

*Note that this modification does not directly increase hp but allows for running higher boost levels without having a lean air/fuel ratio. It is these higher boost levels that account for increased hp.

Stage 5: It's Turbo Time! Approx. total HP gain depends on turbo selected.

• 40hp - 13g Turbos
• 80hp - 15g Turbos
• 100hp - 17g Turbos
• ??? - 357 Turbos
• ??? - 368 Turbos

Stage 6: Cool it down! Approx. total HP gain is 22-45hp.

• 20-40hp - Intercoolers (front mount, side mount)
• N/a - Alcohol or Water Injection System*
• 2-5hp - Ignition System

*Note that this modification does not directly increase hp but allows for running higher boost levels without having a lean air/fuel ratio. It is these higher boost levels that account for increased hp.

Stage 7: Open it up and smooth it out! Approx. total HP gain with stock turbos and stock fuel system is 10-30hp.

• 10-30hp* - Port and polish heads, intake, and exhaust manifolds (extrude hone)

*Note that this modification improves performance dramatically once the fuel system and turbos have been upgraded. Performance after those steps have been completed can range from 50-100hp.

Q: What are the staged upgrades for the non-turbo models?



a: First off, I don't own a non-turbo, so I don't have a complete list of mods. But, from what I know, some stages are similar to those for the turbo model. Before beginning any upgrades, make sure you have completed a tune-up and your 60K service (if necessary). The stages listed here are merely a suggested path - there are others. All horsepower gains are approximated as flywheel hp and have not been measured. Dyno results will obviously show lesser gains due to drivetrain loss.

Stage 1: This stage is meant to make the car breathe easier. Approx. total HP gain is 6-10hp.

• 3-5hp - Open element intake (K&N FIPK, HKS MegaFlow, etc.)
• 3-5hp - Cat-back exhaust (Borla, Greddy, ATR, HKS, etc.)
• N/a - Remove Resonator (mixed opinions on this "mod") - read a Team3S how-to on removing the resonator here

Stage 2: Continued Improved Breathing. Approx. total HP gain is 22-23hp.

• 4hp - Hi-flow Catalytic Converter
• 8hp - Downpipe
• 8hp - Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley
• 2-3hp - Port Matched Intake

Stage 3: Nitrous. Approx. total HP gain depends on shot level of nitrous.

• 50hp - 50hp shot of Nitrous
• 75hp - 75hp shot of Nitrous
• 100hp - 100hp shot of Nitrous
• 150hp - 150hp shot of Nitrous
• etc.

Stage 4: Open it up and smooth it out! Approx. total HP gain is 8-15hp.

• 8-15p - Port and polish heads, intake, and exhaust manifolds (extrude hone)

Q: Which aftermarket exhaust system should I buy?



a: The most common exhausts for the twin turbos are: ATR, HKS, Borla, and some even have Greddy. To my knowledge, the details on each are as follows:

ATR: best flow, dual exhaust with single tips, moderate loudness, costs about $700 or so. Every ATR install I have seen has the tips stick out past the bumper by about 1.5" - 2" or so which I personally do not like.

HKS: not much better than stock flow, dual exhaust with dual tips (stock looking), kinda quiet, cost is high - about $850 or so.

Borla: pretty popular, second-best flow only to the ATR and very close at that, dual exhaust with single tips (not obnoxious looking), probably loudest, stainless-steel, cost is cheapest of all aftermarket exhaust systems - about $540 shipped from Nopi (www.nopionline.com).

Greddy: not too sure on flow, single exhaust with single 5" tip (anything but stock looking), not sure on sound, expensive on cost.

All of the exhausts have a very deep grumble and is nowhere near the "pissed off bumblebee" sound that the ricer Honda's make. I personally have the Borla on my 95 VR4 and love it. It sounds great, has great flow and is the least expensive of all of the exhaust systems.

Q: How do I remove the center gauges?



a: I have a how-to on removing the center gauges on my Center Gauge Removal Guide (special thanks to Keith Johnson). I have an alternative method here. I developed these when I had no success using Keith's instructions.

Q: Where can I find info on the "snake eyes" modification?



a: Check out:
• Fonseca's Snake Eyes Mod
• Cops' Snake Eyes Mod
• Alan's Snake Eyes Mod (One jumper wire)
• Jeff's Snake Eyes Mod
• John Adams puts a new twist on the Snake Eyes mod!

Q: Where can I find bodykits for the Stealth and 3000GT?



a: Check out Team 3S. I also have some other links listed on my Links page.

Q: How do I remove the resonator (N/a only)?



a: Team3S has a how-to on removing the resonator here.

Q: What is the difference between wet and dry Nitrous?



a: The dry Nitrous installation goes into the intake pipe. It is easier to install, is very reliable, and easier to maintain. The wet Nitrous installation is ported into the intake plenum. Typically you can run a higher shot of Nitrous with a wet system yielding more HP than a dry system. The wet system is made more for advanced tuners.

Q: Which gauges should I install in my turbo?



a: The three most important gauges for a turbo (in my opinion) are: a Boost Gauge, an Air/Fuel Gauge, and an EGT (exhaust gas temperature) gauge. The stock boost gauge is very inaccurate and an aftermarket should help you avoid overboosting. An air/fuel gauge will help you determine lean conditions which are harmful. It will also help diagnose tuning problems with fuel ratio if you plan on upgrading the fuel system later (injectors, fuel pump, AFC, etc.) Lastly, an EGT gauge measures the temperature of the exhaust gases. This is important to help diagnose knock, detonation, or other internal problems.

Q: What do I neeed to upgrade my N/a brakes to TT brakes?



a: You will need steering knuckles, rotors, calipers, and all necessary bolts/nuts/etc. Also, make sure your wheels will fit over the new brake calipers.

Q: What is the maximum boost I should run on stock turbos and fuel system?



a: Stock turbos can handle slightly more than 15psi but you should not run more than 15psi without bigger injectors (550cc or 720cc), a larger fuel pump, and something to control the fuel flow (Apexi S-AFC, etc.). If you add alcohol or water injection, you can run slightly higher than 15psi because the WI/AI kit will help control detonation.

Q: What does alcohol/water injection do?



a: Alcohol and water injection combines either alcohol or water into the air/fuel mix that is injected into the cylinder. This combination makes the air/fuel mixture more stable and less likely to induce detonation (knock, pre-ignition, pre-detonation) which can decrease power. This will also cool the intake temperature, again reducing the chance for detonation. Adding this modification allows you to run higher boost levels (15psi+) than you would normally be able to run. This mod is somewhat comparable to constantly running race gas (high octane 100+). It is important to note that water/alcohol injection isn't a solution to avoid an Intercooler upgrade - rather, it should be used to make your tuning more safe and reliable.

Q: What ratio of alcohol/water should I use for alcohol/water injection?



a: There are varied opinions on this question. Most agree that there should be some sort of mix of both water and alcohol. I would begin with a 50/50 mix and tune from there. Others state pure alcohol is the way to go. To my knowledge, there are minimal to zero gains with using only water.

Q: Why should I upgrade the stock fuel system?



a: First, the stock fuel system is inadequate for running boost levels of over 15psi. Toyota Supras come with 550cc injectors and bigger fuel pumps, so you have to keep up! Upgrading the stock fuel system is an important step in that it allows you to run higher boost levels without having a lean air/fuel mixture. Having a lean air/fuel mixture can lead to pre-detonation. Pre-detonation is very harmful to your engine and can potentially damage pistons, cylinders, etc. Pre-detonation can also be caused by overboosting.

Q: Which injectors can I purchase to upgrade the stock fuel system?



a: There are various sizes of injectors that can be used to upgrade the fuel system. The three main sizes are 450cc, 550cc, and 720cc. The 450cc variety is used from a stock DSM (Eclipse or Talon turbo) and provides a basic level of modification. The 550cc are the most commonly used and provide a good level of modification. These injectors should be good up to 18psi of boost. The 720cc models are for very heavy boost (18psi+) and are usually used with at least 15g turbo upgrades.

Q: What do I need to upgrade the stock fuel system?



a: There are three elements that will be needed to upgrade the stock fuel system: bigger injectors, a bigger fuel pump, and an air-flow converter (air/fuel controller).

Q: Where can I find a diagram of the ECU wiring (engine control unit)?



a: Jeff Lucius' website has a diagram of ECU wiring for the 3000GT/Stealth at http://www.stealth316.com/2-ecu94.htm.

Q: Where can I find a diagram of the vacuum hose wiring for turbo models?



a: Jeff Lucius' website has a diagram of vacuum hose wiring for the 3000GT/Stealth turbo models at http://www.stealth316.com/2-vacuumhoses.htm.

Q: Where can I find info on the JC Whitney shift boot replacement?



a: You can find more info at http://www.vr4stealth.com/shift_boot.htm. The part numbers and installation instructions are also posted there.

Q: Where can I find info on upgrading my turbos?



a: You can find a great deal of information at http://www.stealth316.com/2-turboguide.htm.

Q: What is porting and clipping a turbo?



a: Porting a turbo increases the max flow. Clipping is bending the ends of the turbine wheels on the impeller to a specified angle. This will allow you to hold maximum boost longer before dropping off. Clipping also slightly increases spool up time. Clipping is generally used in drag racing to increase high-end power.

Q: Which heat range for spark plugs should I use?



a: The rule of thumb is to use one heat range colder for every 100hp over stock hp rating (flywheel hp). These are typically the Copper NGK plugs. There are varying heat ranges of these plugs. I believe the first range colder than stock is part# BCPR7ES-11. The only real downside to using a colder plug is that they have a shorter life than the platinum NGK stock plugs. Thus, they must be changed more frequently. As compression increases, a colder range plug, higher octane fuel, and attention to ignition timing and air/fuel ratios are necessary.

For a spark-plug reference chart, please refer to Jeff Lucuis' web site at http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkplugtech.htm#j2

There are several things which can affect spark plug operating temperature:


• Air/Fuel Mixture
  
  • a rich air/fuel mixture can cause plug tip temperature to drop, causing fouling and poor driveability
  • a lean air/fuel mixture can cause plug tip temperature to increase. This can result in pre-ignition, or detonation, and increases the potential for serious engine damage. See also: Knock
  • It is absolutely necessary to inspect spark plug condition while tuning to find the ideal air/fuel mixture


• Increased Compression Ratio & Forced Induction
  
  • Increasing the compression ratio can be achieved by:
    • Reducing combustion chamber volume (domed pistons, smaller cylinder heads, milling the cylinder heads, etc.
    • The addition of forced induction (turbo, supercharger, nitrous)
    • Changing the camshaft




Q: What is the difference between an open-loop or closed loop BOV?



a: An open-loop BOV vents the blow-off air to the atmosphere making a loud whoosh noise. a closed-loop BOV/BPV vents this air back into the intake. See below

Q: Should I have an open-loop or closed-loop BOV?



a: The benefit of a closed loop BOV is that the air from the aft side of the turbo, when vented back into the intake, serves as a small boost of air to keep the turbo spooled up. With an open-loop, this air and energy goes to waste. In a closed-loop, it is reused as a spike of air sent by the BOV. This spike of air hits the turbo a split second after the BOV has opened, the perfect time for the energy to be spent spooling the turbo. So clearly, a closed-loop BOV better serves performance. An open-loop BOV justs makes your car sound cool and can even adversely affect performance because of the difference in air that the MAS has already accounted for and measured has been vented to the atmosphere and effectively wasted. Because of this "missing" air, the car can have issues running smoothly.

Q:How does octane rating affect performance?



a: In a nutshell, octane is a rating of how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites. Detonation is a result when the air/fuel mixture ignites by compression rather than because of the spark from the spark plug. Higher octane gasoline can be compressed more than a lower octane gasoline before premature ignition. Because of this, higher octane gasoline is said to have a "slower burn". Using too much octane can cause you to lose power though too. For additional info on octane, refer to http://www.howstuffworks.com.
Question: What does the condition of my spark plugs say about the condition of my engine? http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm

Q: What does the condition of my spark plugs say about the condition of my engine?



a: Spark plug condition and exhaust color are two of the simplest indicators to use to diagnose potential engine problems. See also: Exhaust Color. The Mitsubishi 3000GT Owners Manual suggests that the spark plugs should be changed every 60,000 mi. I make it a point to inspect my spark plugs every 12,000 mi. when I change my oil filter. The spark plug condition descriptions are:

Plug Condition	Appearance	Possible Causes	Resolution
Normal
Overheated
Insulator Glazing
Initial Pre-Ignition
Sustained Pre-Ignition
Detonation
Gap Bridging
Oil Fouled
Splash Fouled
Ash Fouled
Carbon Fouled
Worn
Mechanical Damage

Q: How do I diagnose transmission problems?



a: From: Matt Jannusch

Here's a basic guide to what usually causes each failure:

1. Won't shift: Broken shift forks. Typically caused by someone shifting through the gears VERY aggressively and not properly using the clutch. The only preventative thing to do here is shift either more carefully or more skillfully.
2. Grinding shifts: Bad synchronizer rings. You can get replacements from Kormex (and supposedly now through Mitsubishi/Getrag somehow). Caused by missed shifts and/or poor lubrication or using the wrong weight lubricant. It can sometimes be improved by switching to Redline fluids (50/50 mix of MT90 and MTL fluids) or BG Synchroshift. If different fluids don't help, then the synchro should be replaced before gear tooth damage occurs.
3. Stripped output shaft and/or stripped transfer case input sleeve: Usually caused by water getting into the mating surfaces between the two parts and corroding/rusting the splines thereby weakening them. Eventually they strip out. The only preventative thing that I know is to lubricate the splines and input sleeve with lithium grease each time the clutch is changed or any other service is performed that requires removal of the transfer case. The newer style sleeves/shafts are more reliable than the older ones.

Q: How do I diagnose wheel vibration?



a: There are several things I would check:
1. If it happens only when braking, it is most likely warped rotors
2. If it happens most noticably at higher speeds and not necessarily when braking, it is most likely a bent wheel or a wheel out-of-balance. Out of balance is easy to fix at any decent tire store - maybe $5-$7 per wheel. If it is a bent wheel, you can try to have it fixed at http://www.transwheel.com or check my Links page for other repair shops. They charge about $100 to fix a bent wheel. If they cannot fix it, you can see if they have a re-manufactured wheel (you cannot tell the difference from a brand new one). The re-manufactured wheels for a 18" Chrome 6-spoke VR4 wheel run about $375 there. Talk to Tom Gifford and tell him Dave Black from the Mitsubishi club sent you.
3. It is *possible* although not likely that it could be the mating between the wheel and the hub. There is a not so well-known issue with this and if any one of your wheels was removed and the put back on without the proper torque sequence for the lugnuts, then the wheel is not squarely on the hub and can cause wheel vibration. Lugnuts should be torqued down in a 5-star pattern (like you are drawing a 5-point star) and also in varying levels of tightness. Some people recommend tightening lugs down as follows all 5 lugs to 60 ft lbs. then all 5 to 75 ft lbs. then all 5 to 85 ft lbs. then all 5 to 90 ft lbs.

Q: How do I diagnose brake fade?



a: When the brake pedal goes to the floor, you cooked the brake fluid. If you have a firm pedal but the car won't stop, that's faded pads.

Q: What does the color of my exhaust mean?



a: Excessive color of exhaust can mean several problems. Very white smoke is typically antifreeze and can denote either leaking antifreeze or a blown head gasket. Light blue smoke is typically from oil. Grey or black smoke is typically from excess unburned fuel and is usually seen in a fuel system that is not properly tuned.

Q: How do I diagnose a ticking noise under the valve cover?



a: a great reference is at Team3s ( http://www.team3s.com/FAQliftertick.htm).

Q: What is the owl or "wookie" sounding noise coming from my car?



a: The sound you hear is most likely from the stock BOV (blow-off valve) leaking boost and resonating when doing so. The sound is more noticable if you have an upgraded intake like an open-air K&N FIPK with its increased airflow. This problem is usually cured when you upgrade the BOV. a recirculating BOV like the Greddy Type-S is recommended for performance reasons over a BOV that vents to the atmosphere (e.g. HKS SS BOV, etc.).

Q: What is overboosting?



a: Overboosting is when you run too much boost in your boost controller and do not have other adequate engine modifications to handle the extra boost. Severe engine damage can occur from overboosting such as damaged pistons, valves, cylinders, etc. An example is running over 15psi of boost without having an upgraded fuel system. In this example, you will effectively max out your injectors and risk fuel cut. Another result of high boost without mods that can control detonation are increased EGT's (exhaust gas temperatures - a very bad thing if they go too high). See also: Knock, Controlling Knock.

Q: What is detonation (a.k.a. knock, pre-ignition, pre-detonation)?



a: In a nutshell, detonation or pre-detonation as it's also called, is the combustion of the air-fuel mixture in a cylinder when the piston is at a position other than TDC (top-dead-center). Other than running an engine without oil, there is probably nothing that you can do that is more detrimental to an engine than detonating it. In an ideal combustion cycle there is controlled burning of compressed fuel and air. During detonation there is an exploding of the mixture regardless of where the piston is in its stroke. If the explosion occurs early in the compression stroke then the piston will be forced up against the increased pressure of the combustion mixture and will result in a form of abnormal combustion referred to as pre-ignition. Clearly you can see how this condition can adversely affect the pistons, rods, crankshaft, and bearings - the most precious of all engine components. This condition puts the engine under abnormal stress and can be very harmful. Further in-depth descriptions can be found http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonation/detonation.html and http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm.

Q: How can I control detonation?



a: There are several ways to help control detonation.


1. Water Injection/Alcohol Injection - This will help reduce the chance of detonation by reducing intake temperatures and adding water and/or alcohol to the air/fuel mix thereby making the mixture more stable and less likely to prematurely detonate. See also: Water Injection.



2. Use a colder spark plug heat range - Colder spark plugs have better heat-transfer properties because of shorter, narrower electrodes and insulators. There are additional properties which add to the better heat transfer property. An excellent tech description on plug range can be found on Jeff Lucuis' site.



3. Upgrade the intercooler - By having a more efficient intercooler, cooler intake temperatures can be gained.



4. Richen fuel mixture - There are varying opinions on whether or not this solves detonation or just "covers it up". Many of the more advanced owners do not recommend richening the fuel mixture to help control detonation.



5. Advance timing - This is something to be done carefully as advancing timing too much can result in damage to the engine.

   Retarded timing: When timing is retarded, less power is made because the air/fuel mixture doesn't completely combust during the compression/combustion cycle. The flame front completely combusts after the piston has started its power stroke. This results in a loss of power.

   Advanced timing: When timing is advanced (to a certain degree), slightly more power is made because there is more complete combustion of the air/fuel mixture.

   Over-advanced timing: If timing is over-advanced or advanced too much, the resulting detonation can damage the engine.

6. Propane Injection - This modification is a new and hot topic. There has been some experimentation with this highly touted mod and results look very promising. It has the benefit of much lower intake temperatures than that of water/alcohol injection as its temperature when released is approx. -60F°. It also has an octane rating of approx. 110-120 depending on the source. More information on this hot mod coming soon...

Q: Where can I find Technical Service Bulletins (TSB"s) for the 3000GT & Stealth?



a: Check out my Links page here.

Q: What items should I replace at the 60K mi. service?



a: The recommended items to be replaced at the 60K mi. service interval (other than those already recommended by Mitsubishi) follow below. These items are recommended by experienced owners more as a precautionary measure than anything else.


• timing belt
• all drive belts
• water pump
• tensioner
• idler pulley
• tensioner pulley
• plenum gasket
• spark plugs
• spark plug wires
• fuel filter (2)
• oil drain plug
• PCV valve
• oil seal
• cam shaft oil seals
• radiator flush

Q: Where can I find tips and/or pics of the 60K service?



a: Erik Gross has a good number of pics located here. Rich LeRoy has a DIY (do-it yourself) guide at Team3S here.

Q: What are the best spark-plugs and spark-plug wires for the 3000GT VR4?



a: The overall opinion of those with considerable experience with the VR4/TT is that it is best to use the stock NGK double platinum plugs (NGK part# PFR6J-11 or NipponDenso part# PK20PR-P11) and stock plug wires. The only suggested exception to this is if you intend on running extremely high boost and need a colder range plug to help control detonation. See also: Plug Range. Many other owners have had problems when using plugs and plug wires other than OEM. There are a few owners who haven't had any problems when changing these from stock. In my opinion, it is not worth the potential problems.

Q: Where can I find info on changing the spark-plugs for my 3000GT/3000GTVR4?



a:
• Instructions for the non-turbo.
• Instructions for the turbo.

Q: What should I set my spark plug gap to?



a: The stock spark plug gap is between 0.039 to 0.043 in. The plug gap should be decreased to between 0.028 and 0.034 in. for running higher than stock boost levels. Ideally, you should use the largest gap that does not create spark blowout with the boost setting you use.

Q: What should my air/fuel ratio be?



a: In theory, the ideal air fuel ratio for gasoline motors is 14.7 : 1 (14.7 lbs of air to 1 lb. fuel). However, due to cylinder wall wetting, the fuel ratio is increased to 12.2 : 1. Ratios higher than this may be too lean and can contribute to pre-ignition or detonation. Ratios lower may be too rich and cause spark plug fouling. Some drivers prefer a richer mixture resulting in a slightly slower burn (see Octane) and increased charge cooling (cooling from the air/fuel mixture on intake).

Q: Should I use synthetic oil?



a: The answer to this question, in my mind, has a lot to do with opinion. I have heard many different opinions on the matter from "gearheads" to Mitsubishi mechanics. Some say since synthetic oil costs twice as much as regular oil, the only thing you end up doing by using it is doubling your cost for oil changes. Others say that you cannot use it once the car has used regular oil or once the car has reached a certain mileage. Still others say that you can change it down the road without a problem. So, I would say talk to some mechanics and use whichever you feel most comfortable with.

Q: How do I reset the ECU?



a: Generally, there is no need to rest the ECU. Installation of a hi-flow air filter should not require you to reset the ECU. The ECU will "re-learn" and automatically adjust for any change in airflow. The only time you may want to reset the ECU is if an engine code appears. You can then reset the ECU by unplugging the negative battery cable for approx. 10 seconds.

Q: How do I check the timing on my 3000GT/Stealth?



a: There are instructions for checking the timing on your 3000GT/Stealth at http://www.Team3S.com/FAQtiming.htm.

Q: How do I remove the condensation from my headlight assembly?



a: There is an answer posted on the Team3S website at http://www.team3s.com/FAQheadlights.htm.

Q: How do I fix the flaking or peeling on my headlight assembly?



a: There are instructions for repairing the flaking and peeling of the headlight assembly at http://www.team3s.com/FAQheadlights.htm.

Q: How do I SUBSCRIBE to the 3000GT/Stealth mailing list?



a: Please refer to http://www.3si.org/mailman/listinfo/3si for mailing list subscription info.

Q: How do I UNSUBSCRIBE from the 3000GT/Stealth mailing list?



a: Please refer to http://www.3si.org/mailman/listinfo/3si for mailing list subscription info.

Q: How do I SUBSCRIBE to the 3000GT/Stealth Digest mailing list?



a: Send an email from the address which you'd like to subscribe with the word SUBSCRIBE in the subject to stealth-d-request@starnet.net or click here. This mailing list is a condensed form of the regular 3000GT/Stealth mailing list. Instead of receiving one email for every post made you receive one weekly email with all posts for that week.

Q: How do I UNSUBSCRIBE from the 3000GT/Stealth Digest mailing list?



a: Send an email from the address which you'd like to unsubscribe with the word UNSUBSCRIBE in the subject to stealth-d-request@starnet.net or click here.

Q: How do I SUBSCRIBE to or UNSUBSCRIBE from the Team 3/S mailing list?



a: The Team 3/S mailing list is a much more technical forum and is highly moderated. It is an excellent resource for technically challenging issues and is geared for those with above average knowledge about the 3000GT/Stealth. Please review the rules and instructions here.

Q: I'm listed in your Stealth/3000GT Owners database. How do I edit my information?



a: Click the Owners Database item under the Stealth/3000GT menu. Then, click the link that says 'Edit'. Or, click here.

Q: I'm listed in your Stealth/3000GT Owners database but I don't have my car anymore. How do I delete my information?



a: Please send me an email here along with information on your listing.

Q: What do you do with my owners information?



a: The information entered into the Owners Database is NOT sold nor is it shared with ANY third party, including dealerships, Dodge, or Mitsubishi. It is used exclusively for the purpose of allowing you to store your information in an online database and maintain contact with others included in the database (if desired). This information is not sent to anyone and exists only on this site. There is no proprietary information stored in the database (address, VIN, license plate, etc.). The database can be searched by anyone visiting the site. Occasionally, members may search the site and contact other members via email.

Q: Where is the best place to go for OEM Mitsubishi parts?



a: The following Mitsubishi Dealerships provide great discounts:
• Libertyville Mitsubishi - wholesale discount! - (847) 816-6660
• Rockville Mitsubishi - 25% discount! - (800) 962-9974
• Tallahassee Mitsubishi - 20% discount! - (888) 825-5648
• Norco Mitsubishi - 20% discount! - (909) 735-7100

All discounts apply to 3Si.org members. I also have links to used part sites on my Links page. You can also find Mitsubishi part diagrams, part numbers and OEM prices on my OEM Part Info page.

Q: Where can I find rebuilt transmissions, synchros, etc.?



a: Jack Tertadian has been nice enough to arrange for Kormex to produce some of the Getrag synchros. There are also several other companies that rebuild the Getrag: MD Auto in CA, etc. You can find the links here.

Q: Where can I find out what it costs to purchase a Stealth or 3000GT?



a: I have a number of links to websites with purchasing tips and search engines for autos on my Links page.

Q: What should I look for when looking to purchase a Stealth or 3000GT?



a: There are a number of things to look for when purchasing a Stealth/3000GT. I've listed them in decreasing importance - let's start with the obvious things to look for:


• Transmission - This item is often called the "Achilles Tendon" of the Stealth/3000GT. Shifting is usually somewhat notchy although it is desirable to have it as smooth as possible. Often times changing to a synthetic synchro/transmission fluid (BGSynchro Shift, Redline, etc.) can help.



• Exhaust Color - see exhaust color above.
• Leaky gaskets or fluids where they shouldn't be - check around all seals and gaskets for any leaking fluids. This includes the front exhaust manifold (and the rear if you can get to it), the area where the valve cover meets the cylinder head, oil in the intake or intercooler pipes, etc.
• Spark-plug condition The condition of the spark plugs is a good clue to the condition of the engine internals. See also spark-plug condition.
• Clutch - The clutch should engage approx. 3 inches from the floor and have NO slippage. Replacing a clutch can be quite costly in labor because the transmission must be removed to access the clutch.



• Steering - Check for play in steering wheel. This could indicate worn linkage.



• Oil - Remove oil cap and check for sludge inside cap or inside valve cover area. If the cap smells bad it could indicate infrequent oil changes - oil is the lifeblood of any car!



• Lemon check - Go to Carfax.com and do a Lemon Check. Pay the "extra" $20 and get their full report. Buying from a private party this is of utmost importance because it could have a salvaged title. Dealers are not supposed to sell cars with salvaged titles without notifying the person buying it. Salvage titles reduce the cars overall value by as much as 50% and your resale would be reduced. Private parties do not have liability here, however dealers must get signed affidavits that you have been told of the status. If not, they could be liable to return a full refund even years later if the buyer finds out.



• 60K Service - Find out the the 60,000 mile service was done. This could cost about $1,200 or so. If they can not prove that the 60K service was done, then deduct $1,200 from the amount they are asking or, if a dealer, ask that it be included in the sale.



• "Noise" in the engine area - Check for anything that just doesn't sound right. a light ticking from the lash adjusters is normal for these cars and not a huge problem. The noise will come and go depending on how hard it is run.



• Air bags - Check air bag housings to see if they have been activated or tampered with via raised corners, sloppy fit and finish. If they've ever deployed, this car was most likely in an accident!



• Wheels - Check for wheel vibration while driving. This will indicate bent rims or a needed alignment. Stock wheels for a VR4 run about $700 each new, so check the wheel condition well! Also, check for pitting if chrome rims - depending on where the car is purchased from the wheels may begin to pitt from snow, salt, etc.



• Brakes - Check for wheel vibration while braking. This will indicate warped rotors which may require that the rotors and pads be replaced.



• Tires - Tires can give suspension and alignment info. Tires, especially on the 18" wheels can be as expensive as $300 per tire.



• Body - Check for accident evidence. Check for wavy panels or imperfections. Feel hood edges by wiper blades, doors, under fender areas. These should be smooth and not sharp (evidence of body work). Check paint match for recently painted panels.



• Power items, etc. - Check all window functions, front and rear wiper operation, power seat operation, headlamps and turn signal operation, etc.



• Indicator lights - Check that all indicator test lights are working when the ignition is turned on and that they do not remain on after the car has been started.



• Active Aero (VR4 only) - Check both the front air dam under the nose and rear active spoiler (they engage when the Active Aero is turned on. Check my Specifications page to see if the model you are checking comes with Active Aero.



• Stereo, speakers, etc. - Check the stereo for CD or tape operation, speaker condition, overall sound, etc.

Now here are some things that are not so obvious to look for but just as important:

• Previous Records & Documentation - Any records on maintenance, purchased parts, service, receipts, etc. is helpful in determining what shape the car is in. If possible, verify the VIN on the document matches the VIN on the car in question. Also, make sure that the timeframes of the records match (a service record in 1993 doesn't belong to a car made in 1995, etc.). Check the name of the owner against the name on the records - if they are not the same person, ask how this person knows that the records are authentic?



• What kind of owner is this? - While speaking to this person ask yourself "what kind of owner is this?" Is this someone who speaks fondly of the car? If so, they probably took care of it. Is this an owner who modified it to hell and is now having problems with it? Is it that infamous "little old lady" that salespeople always mention?



• What kind of Mods have been done to the car? - Unless you know what you're getting yourself into, purchasing a car with lots of modifications could be problematic. Does this car have modifications that you know anything about? If not, how are you going to fix or tweak something down the road if necessary? Who installed the modifications? a professional shop? a do-it-yourself'er? What kind of documentation is the seller going to provide you? For example, you don't want to get a boost controller unless you know how to operate it. Ask for the Owners Manual for any electronic modifications that might have been installed.

Q: What is the wheel offset on my 3000GT?



a: Note that this information is from my 1995 3000GT Owners Manual - your offset may be different: 1.81 in. (46mm).

Q: What size tires can I install on my Stealth or 3000GT?



a: You can read a Tire Plus Sizing document written by Cody Graham here.

Q: Where can I find a list of all stock and optional wheels for the Stealth or 3000GT?



a: a great list of all available stock and optional wheels is listed at http://www.team3s.com/FAQwheels.htm.

Q: What is the approximate weight of stock 18" x 8.5" chrome wheels?



a: The approximate weight of a stock 18" x 8.5" chrome wheel is 32 lbs. without tire. The approx. weight with tire (depending on the tire) is about 44-52 lbs.

Q: What pressure should I set my tires at?



a: It depends on what kind of driving you plan on doing. Normal driving conditions require a tire pressure of 35psi in the front tires and 32 psi in the rear tires. If you are autocrossing or open tracking, suggested tire pressures are 40 (front) and 38 (rear). Note that all tire pressures should be measured when the tire is cold (i.e. before the car is driven). Pressure readings will increase once the tires have warmed up.

Q: What does GT, SL, and VR-4 stand for?



a: While there are probably several definitions, I've always used:
• GT: Gran Tourismo
• SL: Sport Luxury
• VR-4: Viscous Realtime 4-wheel drive




Q: How do I decode my VIN (vehicle identification number)?



a: I highly recommend looking at Eric's "Mitsubishi 3000GT and Dodge Stealth Story Teller". After entering your VIN, you'll discover a wealth of stats about your individual car!

You can also find 3000GT/Stealth VIN codes listed here.

Q: Where can I purchase an Owners Manual for my 3000GT?



a: You can contact Mitsubishi directly at 1-800-222-0037 or 1-800-447-4700. You can also contact a Mitsubishi dealership. Libertyville Mitsubishi offers a 30% discount to 3Si members. You can contact their Parts department at 847-816-6660.

Q: Where can I purchase a remote for keyless entry?



a: New remotes for keyless entry can be purcahsed from Libertyville Mitsubishi at (847) 816-6660 for approx. $25 plus shipping. Note that programming the keyless entry unit will be required when you purcahse a replacement "FOB" or keyless entry remote unit.

Q: How do I program the remote for keyless entry?



a: Programming the keyless entry receiver will be required when you purcahse a replacement "FOB" or keyless entry remote unit. The keyless entry receiver is located behind the rear interior panel near the drivers seatbelt (drivers side). Here are the steps for programming your remote for keyless entry:
1. Remove the rear hatchback cover
2. Remove the rear seat:
   1. Pull the two handles near the center of each seat section on the bottom portion of the seat
   2. Lift the seat bottom upwards and set aside
   3. Remove the two 12mm bolts at the base of the rear seatback on the drivers side
3. Remove the driver's side rear panel:
   1. Remove the rearmost screw on the plastic strip that sits over the rocker panel
   2. Remove the screw on the cover of the rear seatbelt retractor then remove the cover
   3. Remove the screws holding the seatbelt harness from the frame. This can be tricky since there is little room to work with. Use a stubby screwdriver
   4. The seatbelt itself does not need to be removed. You can just remove the harness and leave the seatbelt threaded thru the panel
4. Remove the screws closest to the rear of the car that are located on the plastic header and footer around the drivers doorframe. These typically overlap the rear panel by a small amount and may need to be loosened to move the rear panel
5. Behind the rear panel you should see a box in front of the rear speaker - this is the receiver unit
6. Remove the receiver from the car body
7. Find the switch labeled SET 1 - FIX - SET 2 and move the switch to either SET position. (the two SET positions are in case you have two transmitters with different codes)
8. Press any button on the remote transmitter
9. Move the switch back to the FIX position
10. Test the new remote transmitter
11. Reconnect everything making sure that the antenna connector is tightly connected to the receiver

Q: What is the deal with AWS (all-wheel steering)?



a: This feature was one of a few Japanese sports cars that enabled all 4 wheels to turn. AWS is a feature that is only available on the twin turbo models (VR4's and TT's). AWS was available on all model years (refer to my Specifications page for more info). All-wheel steering is activated at 45 mph. It is a "same-phase" AWS that turns the rear wheels a maximum of 1.5 degrees in the same direction as the front wheels. This is something that is almost unnoticable to the naked eye (unless you are under a car on a lift with a driver going over 45mph). It is certainly not visible when the car is stopped. This feature was added to improve the car's handling and it's difference can be felt by the responsiveness of the steering wheel at speeds above 45mph.

Q: What is "ECS"?



a: "ECS" means "electronically controlled suspension". The ECS button on your dashboard has two settings: "Tour" and "Sport". Tour mode is the default setting selected each time the car is started; changing the ECS setting is not remembered after the ignition is turned off. The Tour mode has a softer feel than the more aggressive Sport mode. The ride in Sport mode feels stiffer and slightly more responsive. The Sport setting is typically used for high-speed driving, drag racing, road racing, auto-cross, etc. I frequently use the Sport mode when drag-racing at the track to decrease the "squatting" in the suspension from a nice, hard launch. I was skeptical that I would be able to tell a difference between the two but having owned the car for more than 8 years, I can honeslty say that I *do* feel a difference.

Q: How can I beat my speeding ticket?



a: Jeff Mulligan has put a great site together detailing information that is vital to help you beat that speeding ticket - http://www.BeatMySpeedingTicket.com.

Q: What is the weight of the stock driver and passenger seat?



a: The weight of the stock drivers side seat is approximately 65 lbs. The passenger seat weighs approximately 45 lbs.

Q: Where can I find compressor flow maps for turbos?



a: Compressor flow maps for our turbos and upgraded turbos can be found at Jeff Lucius' site at http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htm.

Q: Where can I find listed 1/4 mile times for various cars?



a: a site with "reasonable" 1/4 mile performance numbers for a wide variety of cars is at http://web.missouri.edu/~apcb20/times.html.

Q: What is the J-spec engine?



a: The J-spec engine is a VR-4 engine with 13G turbos instead of the regular stock 9B turbos. The 13G turbos are larger and provide more air flow and subsequently more HP than the normal 9B turbo. These engines can be found in the Japanese and European versions of the 3000GT VR-4.

Q: What is the difference between HP at the wheels and HP at the flywheel?



a: The basic difference betwwen HP at the wheels and HP at the flywheel is HP at the flywheel is pure HP from the engine. This is usually the figure published by auto manufacturers. For example, the 1995 3000GT VR-4 is listed at 320 hp - this figure is measured at the flywheel. HP at the wheels is significantly lower because the power must pass thru all of the gears, driveshaft, etc. that are in the drivetrain. The movement and friction of these parts causes power loss. The difference between these 2 numbers is called drivetrain loss. The approximate drivetrain loss is estimated at about 24% for a stock AWD turbo model. These results can be taken from my Dyno Results page noting Joe Gonsowki's dyno of 238hp to the wheels from a stock 1996 Stealth R/T TT. This drivetrain loss factor is not constant though as HP increases. For example, it seems unreasonable to have a drivetrain loss of 200hp (24%) on a car that makes 830hp at the flywheel.

The approximate drivetrain loss for a N/a model is *estimated* at 10%-15%.

Q: Where can I find production numbers for the 3000GT and Stealth?



a: Check out my Model Specifications page or Eric Bowden's site - http://www.suthnr.com/garage/3s-production.html.

Q: What are the stock boost settings?



a: The stock boost settings are 9 lbs. for 91-93 models and 11 lbs. for 94+ models. This change in boost pressure accounts for the 20hp difference between the models - see below.

Q: What is the stock injector size?



a: The stock injector size is a mere 360cc.

Q: What grade tranny fluid should I use?



a: The owners manual lists both GL-4 and GL-5 grade tranny fluids. However, there was a TSB issued that stated NOT to use GL-5 as it is bad for the synchros.

Q: How can I help prevent brake rotor warping?



a: Rotor warp is a common problem on the 3000GT and Stealth. It is because the brake system is somewhat sub-par for the weight of the vehicle. Nothing can be done to completely prevent this condition. However, certain things can be done to help minimize the chance of it occurring. First, upgrading rotors to something such as Porterfield can help. These rotors are high quality. You can also purchase them in the cross-drilled version. This can help dissipate heat more quickly and allow the rotor to operate more efficiently. Another option is to have the rotor cryo-treated. This treatment does not prevent warping (contrary to popular belief) but makes the rotor stronger and more durable increasing the rotor life. The last option is to upgrade the brake pads. This is just as important as upgrading the rotor because a cheap brake pad will not dissipate heat quickly enough allowing the rotor to remain hot, decreasing performance and increasing the chance of warpage. Keeping the brake system as cool as possible is the key to minimizing warping.

Q: How do I get the best fuel economy from my 3000GT/Stealth?



a: If you have upgraded your fuel system, your fuel economy will obviously decrease. However, you can improve fuel economy by following the recommended shift-points from Mitsubishi as follows:



Note the following tables are for the 6-speed transmission



Condition	Upshift speeds mph (km/h)
	Acceleration		Cruise
	FWD	AWD	FWD	AWD
1st to 2nd	15 (25)	15 (25)	13 (20)	13 (20)
2nd to 3rd	23 (35)	25 (40)	21 (34)	21 (34)
3rd to 4th	34 (55)	35 (56)	33 (53)	33 (53)
4th to 5th	43 (70)	45 (70)	37 (60)	37 (60)
5th to 6th	-	50 (80)	-	45 (70)


FWD: Front-wheel drive cars
AWD: All-wheel drive cars

High-altitude conditions should be upshifted as listed below:



Condition	mph (km/h)
1st to 2nd	15 (25)
2nd to 3rd	25(40)
3rd to 4th	40 (65)
4th to 5th	45 (70)
5th to 6th	50 (80)

Q: What is the engine code for the 3000GT/Stealth?



a: The engine code for the 3000GT/Stealth is 6G72.

Q: What is the bore and stroke for the 3000GT/Stealth?



a: Per my owners manual the bore is 3.59in (91.1mm) and the stroke is 2.99in (76mm). It is the same for turbo and non-turbo models and I believe is the same for all model years.

Q: What are some advantages of the 3000GT VR4 over other sports cars?



a: It has full-time AWD (all-wheel drive) where most other sports cars have rear-wheel drive which is difficult to manage with in the winter - if winter even applies to you :). It rides like it's on rails! It is built like a tank so it's extremely safe. It's not as common as a BMW M3, Camaro, TransAm, Corvette, etc. So, if you like to stand apart from the crowd, this one's for you! The twin turbo, in my opinion, has a longer list of staged modifications than a non-turbo. So, if you're planning on mods, choose the twin turbo. I could go on and on but lastly, it just looks sweeeeeeet!

Q: How do I find my 4 digit stereo security code?



a: The stereo security is used for anti-theft purposes. You may need to re-enter this code after the battery has been disconnected for some time. To find the code, remove the stereo and look for the serial number on the back of the stereo. Then contact your nearest Mitsubishi dealer (find a dealer here) and provide the radio serial number along with your VIN (vehicle identification number located near the topmost section of the dashboard on the drivers side at the bottom of the windshield.

Q: How do I enter my 4 digit stereo security code?



a: The way to enter the stereo code (as I recall from memory) is to do the following:


1. Turn on the power to the radio - you will be prompted for the code
2. Press the '1' button on the radio the number of times that the first number of your code is
3. Press the '2' button on the radio the number of times that the second number of your code is
4. Press the '3' button on the radio the number of times that the third number of your code is
5. Press the '4' button on the radio the number of times that the fourth number of your code is
6. Once the code is entered, press the 'TAPE' button and the radio should then come on

For example, if your code is '3841', press the '1' button 3 times, the '2' button 8 times, the '3' button 4 times, the '4' button 1 time. You will not be required to re-enter the code unless you disconnect the battery again for an extended time. Note that if you make a mistake when entering the code, you will have to start over from the beginning as there is no way to "erase" the numbers you have entered.

Q: What changes were made to move the turbo models from 300hp (91-93) to 320hp (94+)?



a: The stock boost level was changed from 9 lbs. (91-93) to 11 lbs. (94+). Each pound of boost equates to approximately 10hp depending on the level of modifications done to your car. For example, on a mildly modified car (intake, exhaust), you may get about 10hp per lb of boost. On a much more seriously modified car that you have port matched and extrude honed the intake and polished the heads (along with upgraded intake, exhaust, downpipe, fuel system, turbos, blow-off valve, intercoolers, etc.) you may see increases of 20-30 hp per lb of boost.

Q: How does a turbo work?



a: Roger Gerl has an excellent site with lots of technical information, including how a turbo works. You can visit his site at http://www.rtec.ch/turbo_basics.html. Another great explanation is located at http://www.HowStuffWorks.com.

Q: Where can I purchase diecast models of the 3000GT & Stealth?



a: Check out my Links page here.

Q: Where can I find the Team3S Stealth Technical Info Manual?



a: You can find the Team3S Stealth Technical Information Manual at http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/STIM91.htm.

Q: Where can I find other 3000GT/Stealth FAQS?



a: Try these sites:


• Hans Ertl's FAQ
• Team 3/S FAQ
• Andrew Caple's FAQ